Monday, 9 May 2022

The Valley Hotel, Ironbridge

 

Ironbridge - Best Western Valley Hotel 

Buildwas Rd, Ironbridge, Coalbrookdale, Telford TF8 7DW


April 2022


 

Viv and I had a four-night stay in Ironbridge last week; rather than risk the chance of choosing an eccentric or noisy pub, we opted to go for a hotel, and the only one in the village is the Best Western Valley Hotel.


Arriving there by taxi was almost thrilling, approaching the village down the steep roads down the valley side seemed to take us away from the modern world, into a place more interesting, historical and scenic. The hotel itself though was not terribly welcoming. The approach to the reception door was down some very steep steps; fortunately a handrail was provided, and needed - we both used it every time we came and went.


On the window of the door there was a sign formed of adhesive lettering requesting, or advising, guests to wear a face mask in all hotel public areas. I’m not of the view that face masks should be banned - if people are nervous they are free to wear whatever they like - but it is now surely well known that good ventilation and cleanliness are key to reducing the spread of covid, and the consequences of being infected are, in any event, relatively minor for even the quite elderly unless they have other illnesses. A sign up asking me to wear a face mask is, to me, akin to a bouncer eyeing me up on entry and saying something like ‘I don’t like the way you look’: it's the very opposite of what I expect from a hotel, it’s not welcoming. 


Reception - and restaurant staff at The Valley were wearing masks in public places, but I felt sorry for them. They no doubt realised the pointlessness of it, and how a hotel full of people with covered faces is not a place that many people feel they can relax.



***


The reception area was rather dated, dark furnishings and decor, so it was no surprise when, after climbing the rather curious staircase to find our room that we opened the door to see a spacious, but very 1980s, hotel room. Unfortunately, not only was the style rather of that era, some of the furnishings may well have been that old. The mattress was at least clean, and looked quite new, but after a night's sleep on it I decided it was the thinnest I have slept on since a zed-bed many years ago. The pillows were shot to bits, resting your head on one resulted in the filling moving away from the underside of your head, leaving it resting solely on the mattress.


The carpet was aged but clean, ditto the curtains (which could have come from a vintage shop) and pelmet (yuk). The shades on the lamps either side of the bed did not match. There was, however, and much to my surprise, a small balcony with a pair of outdoor chairs and a table, accessible from a door that opened easily; unfortunately the security chain on this was broken, I had to be careful to make sure it was locked whenever we left the room. The balcony itself was adequate, although sitting out there and looking back at the room you didn’t have to try hard to see the inadequate state of the exterior paintwork of the building. 



A check around revealed all the basics were there - two (rather small) chairs, a proper wardrobe (with doors) and drawers (no panicking about what the cleaners will think of my underwear), full length mirror, TV (strangely, hiding in the corner of the room where the drawn curtains would obscure the margin of the screen), power points close to the bed head, a great digital clock that even I, with my -4.5 eyesight, could see in the dark, hospitality tray (including mineral water and glasses), hairdryer, and, in the ensuite, a shaver socket. There was even a phone on one side of the bed, it's ages since I stayed in a hotel room with a phone, very 1980s! I was surprised that there was no information folder, and hence no way of contemplating dinner in the restaurant other than enquiring about the menu at reception. In the ensuite all was clean, and, as we later found, the over bath shower was powerful, and hot water plentiful, but the controls were not easy to use - something that should have been communicated in an information folder. There was, though, some poor finishing, especially around the shower screen, seemingly half a tube of silicone having been dolloped around it to stop leaks. 



I mentioned the cleaners, a big plus was that the rooms were serviced daily: there was none of the ’we’re not servicing rooms to avoid spreading covid’ nonsense that some hotels have inflicted upon the paying public in recent times. (Many of the paying public were all too aware it was just a way to cut back on staff, and nothing to do with covid).


One expectation for many guests that wouldn’t be met was wi-fi. There didn’t seem to be any public wi-fi in the hotel at all. We did have an opening window (as well as the balcony door), but somehow a builder had messed it up though, it didn’t open very much because it bashed against the rail around the balcony! Phone signal was ok, marginally better on the balcony. 



Lighting in the room was largely by means of fluorescent bulbs: it was adequate, only just. There was no light over either mirror in the bedroom, and only one - on the left - for the bathroom mirror. I’m not sure if I shaved the right side of my face properly at all during my stay, but no-one said anything: perhaps it's a tradition at The Valley, that all male residents should grow right-side-only beards during their stay.


The ensuite had been designed, or fitted out, by someone who doesn’t wash their face very often, for there was an awkward shelf fitted just above the basin. It was big enough to get in the way when washing, but not big enough to take the washbag of a couple staying away from home for a few nights. The washbag had to stay in the bedroom.



One major omission in the ensuite was a handrail (or perhaps two) to hold on to while getting into the bath to use the over-bath shower: I wouldn’t be surprised to hear of guests grabbing the flimsy towel rail instead, and this giving way, perhaps resulting in injury. Another disappointment was the standard of loo roll provided: soft loo roll should surely be provided in anything above a basic hotel, and that supplied was more than a little on the rough side.


I do wonder whether we were the first guests to stay in the room for a while: at the start of our stay the bath drained very slowly, but it freed up after we had had a couple of showers. This should have been picked up by the cleaners, for a slow draining bath or shower tray in a hotel is a potential cause of much damage and inconvenience if a guest should forget they’ve left the taps running.


I was a little surprised to be given just one card key for our room, but, unlike many hotels, there would have been no need for a second unless we both wanted to go out, separately (which we didn’t): the lighting in the room was not controlled by a card. Heating was reliable, of the underfloor variety, controlled by a proper thermostat like the one I’m used to at home. No aircon or fan was running through the night while we slept, if there is one good thing about 1980s hotel room design the heating and ventilation must be it! Also, I was rather surprised to find that there was no Gideon Bible; some hosts don’t approve, but I’ve never understood why, for a bible can give reassurance to those who might feel a little troubled away from home. 


***


When lying in bed with the TV on a few more shortcomings became apparent. As well as the actual position of the TV relative to the curtains, the remote seemed to operate in a very strange fashion. I had to press the buttons very hard to get it to work at all, and, on multiple occasions, I had to get out of bed and go to the screen to select channels from the channel menu rather than just enter the channel number. For some reason that did not work very well. Further, channels were assigned to different channel numbers on the TV than (I thought) the Freeview standard was. Again, an in-room information folder might have explained the vagaries of the television. For all that, the picture was always good, and the volume could be turned up to be suitably audible at all times; I am not sure if those in adjoining rooms might have heard it, but we never heard theirs. Indeed, sound from passageways or other rooms was minimal; the only disturbance we experienced was a (presumed) staff member’s motorcycle arriving in the car park at six a.m. every day, and a delivery van that seemed to come every morning well before 4. (There was a sign on the front door advising delivery drivers to go round the back; surely it would have made sense to have night time deliveries at the front door, away from most of the bedrooms. This was a good, but not the only, example of the sort of idiosyncrasy that I had expected at a Best Western hotel.)  


Another problem that became apparent lying in bed - as well as the poor quality mattress and dreadful pillows - was that the bed was, I think, rather short. It was certainly no bigger than a standard double; I’m five foot ten and my feet reached the bottom. Again, Premier Inn provides large beds, and the management at The Valley Hotel should learn from them - the room was plenty big enough for a king size. In fact, there was something curious about the bed: the divan base was in two halves, and divided crosswise halfway down; the connection between the two halves was not sound, there being a two inch gap between them. This also meant there was two inches of divan at the foot of the bed with no mattress.




There was also a huge expanse of space on the wall, where the modest flat screen TV could have been fitted high and centrally, yet it was hidden off to one side. I suspect the owners were only prepared to pay a minimal amount to the sparks who fitted the screen, so he kept the cable runs as short as possible - surely a false economy.




The view from our room window, or balcony, was rather marred by being overlooked by some modern houses, perhaps affordable housing, that had clearly been built in what was once part of the land belonging to the hotel. These neighbours there weren't terribly noisy, but the houses did somewhat spoil a view of what I had expected to be scenic grounds. (I did also notice that, on the footpath beside the road to the east of the hotel entrance, masses of ivy growing from land seemingly enclosed by these properties, clearly not being controlled or managed by anyone. This may have even been a responsibility of the hotel, and partially blocked footpaths outside a hotel do not a good image make.) 




***

Not being people who like hotel breakfasts - all that politeness around the buffet and keeping a nervous eye on ‘your’ slice of toast going round in the toaster - Viv and I opted to breakfast elsewhere. The first morning we grabbed croissants and coffee at the Co-op - cheap, but basic, with a coffee machine that didn’t want to do a hot chocolate for caffeine-nervous me; on the other mornings we ate at Darby’s, a cafe by the iron bridge that opened at 8 (more or less). Darby’s was pricier than I had expected but still cheaper, for what we wanted, than the hotel would have been, at £10 for a continental and £14 for a cooked. 


We did eat one meal, a dinner, in the hotel restaurant, and, generally, we were impressed - although the prices were not at the budget end of the market (£25 for a steak). The waiting staff were very keen but some clearly lacked experience; the food was generally satisfactory, although my rare steak was somewhat lacking in pinkness. Like many hospitality venues the management is, I suspect, operating with a new team in both kitchen and restaurant, which will give rise to minor issues. I saw the staff working hard and didn’t have the heart to send back my steak, although, pre-covid, I probably would have done.



***


Unlike Premier Inn, Best Western is a franchise: branded hotels will be individual, and guests may actually like this. However, I do think that, for rates well in excess of what you’d pay at a PI, guests are entitled to expect the basic comforts if not more, and bed, pillows and mattress  to be at least up to the PI standard. The Valley Hotel would have worked out around £120 a night for two B&B (£95 a night room only), and there’s no excuse for a thin mattress and knackered pillows at that price. They do indeed offer ‘superior’ rooms, perhaps with better beds, but a comfortable night’s sleep bed is surely a basic expectation, not an extra for those willing to pay perhaps £20 more.


The Valley Hotel is in a good location, just ten minutes walk from Ironbridge centre and in something of a monopoly position, for there is no other large hotel in Ironbridge. It does have a lovely location, good restaurant and keen - if perhaps inexperienced - staff, but for me a decent bed is a must. In the unlikely event that I am ever in Ironbridge again I shall not look forward to sleeping on that sort of bed again, and will require significant reassurance regarding room standards to stay at The Valley Hotel. 







Saturday, 7 May 2022

Iron Bridge, No Knickers

 

Iron Bridge, No Knickers

Ironbridge World Heritage Site, TF8 7JP


April 2022




At the entrance to Disneyland, California - a few thousand miles from Shropshire - there is a sign that reads something like ‘Here you leave today, and enter the world of yesterday, tomorrow and fantasy’. Entering the Ironbridge gorge is a bit like that, leaving the concrete madness of Telford behind as you travel down the narrow, winding roads to the cradle of the industrial revolution. I think that near-time-warp is at the root of many of what I feel to be faults in the World Heritage Site; I’m not sure I like its version of tomorrow, or fantasy.


We travelled down for a few days staying at the Valley Hotel (reviewed elsewhere on this blog) rather expecting to be immersed in the 18th century; much of the time, however, we found ourselves to be all too aware of the twenty-first.


***


The first thing most visitors to Ironbridge do is to go to look at the famous bridge. Impressive it is indeed, constructed in the days when the only means they had to move around large metal parts on land was human-, or animal-, powered. But to get to it you have to walk along narrow pavements beside a busy road; indeed, so busy that, at times, Viv and I had to give up on the idea of conversation. A 20mph speed limit applies to this road, but is widely ignored, as visitors can see from the smiley sign that tells drivers their speed - at least half the vehicles we saw were exceeding 20mph, and a few 30. (Speeding seems to be accepted among the locals; on the way home, our taxi back to the station was doing almost 40mph along The Lloyds and Coalport Road, both subject to a 20mph limit.)


Speeding cars are bad enough, but HGVs use the route too. How on earth large tipper trucks come to be permitted to drive through a UNESCO World Heritage Site is beyond me.


***


The traffic and narrow pavements make it difficult to window shop, which is a shame, for there are many interesting little shops there - antiques and vintage seemingly popular, also an off licence which had whisky from Yorkshire in its window. If it hadn’t been almost £70 a bottle I might have tried some. Pubs there are a plenty, some not so good (The Tontine, right by the bridge, rather reminded me of a pub by the station in a rough area of Leeds I used to have reason to frequent which often looked as if a fight had taken place there the night before) but The Coracle micropub is a definite hit. We ate in the curry house two doors down one night and were able to take draught beer along; a wide range of craft beers was on offer at The Coracle, and the host and customers were all friendly. 


Other food outlets I’d recommend are La Casita - a tapas bar hidden away above another restaurant - and Darbys, good (if a little pricey) for breakfast. Darby’s opens at 8, early enough to provide an alternative to ghastly hotel breakfasts. The chips at the fish and chip shop were good, the pie and fishcake we had less so, perhaps they had been kept warm a little too long. 


Good cuisine is available; there is The Valley Hotel, also The Water Rat just out of town towards Buildwas, past the railway bridge, and The White Hart closer to the village centre. Like many establishments, they’ve all had a tough time with covid, staff may be inexperienced and times are restricted. A lady at The White Hart went to great lengths to show us the dinner menu, only then to have to tell us that they weren’t serving dinner for another hour.


***


It is difficult for retail businesses at the moment: Joe Public is polarised, some still frantic about hygiene, wearing masks and avoiding anyone not wearing one, others are damn glad to see the back of masks, social distancing and plastic screens. If you ask me, too many businesses in Ironbridge were still ‘Covid nervous’, with signs up requesting masks be worn, and containers of hand gel by their entrance. That is perhaps a reflection on their customers; tourists, in particular, at this time of year will not be families, but the retired, perhaps more nervous regarding health matters than under 65’s like me.


Indeed, there were a few rollators and zimmer frames in use by pedestrians around the centre of the town. I’m not sure how they would have got on on some of the side streets and footpaths, for they are steep and steps common; good for photographers and artists maybe, but not for the less mobile. 



I did at first want to go to the museums: at least, Blists Hill Victorian Town and Coalbrookdale Iron Museum. That was until I found out the price: £21.50 each for Blists Hill, and £10 for the Iron Museum. Blists Hill sounds interesting - but for two over sixties (no discounts for age or disability, by the way), £43 is a heck of a lot for perhaps three hours passing the time and no doubt spending money in shops and cafes too). We declined the opportunity to visit either. 


***



A taxi driver told us that Blists Hill was £14 before the pandemic; we weren’t the only ones to have commented on the price to him. Undoubtedly the museums will have lost money during lockdowns, but they can’t just expect people to accept a 50% price increase to compensate: they should have lobbied their MPs to stop lockdown. I also wondered whether the chief execs of the charities running the museums were enjoying the same, or higher, salaries they did three years ago… answers on a postcard please …


The good thing is, you don’t have to pay to see history around Ironbridge, fortunately. As well as the bridge in the centre, to the east of the town, set back from the road but close to the river, we found the Bedlam Iron Furnaces, shelter beneath what I originally took to be a rather stylish petrol station canopy. We weren’t the only tourists there taking photos, but the main use of the car park area seemed to be for locals, heading east out of Ironbridge, to turn their cars round and drive back through again, no doubt having sat nav problems and adding to the traffic overload back by the bridge. We also found some old lime kilns beside the old railway line to Bridgnorth, now a public footpath.


***



More modern industry is evident at the other end of town. Close to Buildwas bridge lie the remains of Ironbridge Power Station, a coal-fired industrial conglomeration that, in its day, generated 1000MW of electricity. The chimney has gone, but there are still a number of former electricity supply buildings on site. The local authorities have eyes on the site for housing, which will overload the local roads still further with traffic. I can’t help feeling that, with the water from the Severn being available for cooling, it might be better kept in industrial use - especially if the old railway (still in place) were used for access. A coal-fired power station might be unacceptable in these times of high electricity costs (due to our enthusiasm for wind power), but why not nuclear, or are the locals - mostly not terribly well off, by the looks of things - quite happy to pay two grand a year for energy? 


The madness of energy policy, and a population that has been conned into thinking that wind power is a good thing (what do you do when the wind isn’t blowing?), reflect a societal failing that is visible elsewhere in Ironbridge. Around 9am on each of three days we made our way along the main road, past the village school: no doubt, I thought, an institution where the young (under 12) children would be taught all about man’s spoiling of the planet, the evils of fossil fuels, and how we should all ‘go green’ to save the planet. They need to talk to their parents: the - quite large - car park opposite the school was always full at these times, with parents dropping off their offspring, no doubt too lazy to indulge in the exercise of a walk themselves, and depriving their children of it. And, from what I saw, the vast majority of the cars were of the old-fashioned, internal combustion engined, variety.



The school itself did display a feature of our times: slogans. Four arches summoned the children to school along the ‘Pathway of Knowledge’ , emphasising the importance of ‘serving the community’. I didn’t understand that sign: did they mean the school was serving the community, or that the children were, or should be? In what way are the powers that be teaching those children that they will ‘serve their community’? All sounds rather too Maoist for me, I’m glad I got through education before school leaders started to think about signs, slogans and mission statements. I felt sorry for the poor kids, how confused they must be.  



***



I’m afraid Ironbridge, or the authorities that run it, doesn’t know what it is. A tourist attraction with museums? Then why have so much traffic going through it? A World Heritage Site? Ditto. A run down, former industrial village being taken over by wealthy retirees looking for a nice quiet cottage by the river? So why promote it to tourists? Why rip off the tourists with exorbitant charges for the museums, which will only encourage them to wander along the narrow pavements and get in the way of the locals who seem to need to drive everywhere if those locals want a tranquil place to live?


Ironbridge seems to epitomise the illusory state of much of the UK economy: on the surface it looks ok, but underneath nothing makes sense, and when, in the future, things get tough (if they haven’t already) the tourists will stop coming and their money will stop rolling in. There’s no sign of any strategic planning that makes any sense: why not close the road through the village to all non-essential traffic, and have electric minibuses ferrying people around, between the museums and a Park and Ride car park that apparently exists in Telford? (I say apparently, in our four nights and three days there, we never once saw a P+R bus). The outward display of a tourist idyll with interesting shops is pure cover for a rather rough, noisy, traffic-dominated, badly co-ordinated, expensive post-industrial urban-decaying mess; rather, as the Scottish expression goes, ‘a bit fur coat and nae knickers’. 


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